Krakow

Poland wasn't necessarily on my visit list, but I am so very glad I went. The sights and the food made it a wonderful trip. 

Landed the first day and went on a food tour, tried Polish beer, ate soup and pierogi, tried zapiekanka (great open faced sandwich), sampled vodka, and tried a wonderful version of cheesecake. We walked all around the city including areas that were used in the filming of Schindler's List. Those areas, and most notably Kazinierz, are having a huge resurgence with many excellent restaurants and bars. 

My first full day I had booked an all day tour to Auschwitz and the Wieliczka salt mine. It was an incredibly long day, starting before 8am getting a break for lunch and finishing around 7pm. I had booked both thinking it was all one tour, but we drove all the way back to the city and started the second tour later. That did give me the opportunity to try a "milk bar" recommended on every travel blog I had read about Krakow, U Babci Maliny. It did not disappoint. This was an absolutely exhausting day partly because it was long and partly because it was emotionally taxing to see a site where so many people died. 

I didn't take many pictures, out of respect, but you can't help but be aghast by the sheer volume of the carnage at Auschwitz. This picture includes one of the gates with the infamous words "Arbeit Macht Frei" (Work will make you free). There is also a room which displays some of of the items left behind, people showed up to the depot at Birkenau with everything they could carry and 75% didn't even make it to the work camps. There is an entire room of human hair, that was cut from victims before they were sent to the gas chambers. Really this was such a humbling and evocative experience that I think everyone and everyone should visit. 

Next I went to a salt mine that was in operation from the 1600s until 20 years ago. The tour was only 3 miles long and we only saw 2% of the mine. 

Hundreds of steps going down. 

Chapel, out of salt. 

Last Supper, out of salt. 

Totally weird, but they encourage you to lick the walls... to prove that everything is salt. It is. 

Last day was spent just going ALL around the city. 

Stopped to see the fabled dragon who breathes fire during my run. 

Saint Mary's Basilica on the outside. I really wanted to climb the tower, but waited until it opened to get tickets. Big mistake. They were already sold out. But I did get a ticket to go inside and take pictures. 

Worth the 7 euro or whatever it was. The inside of this church is breathtaking. 

The cloth hall is where to buy all your Poland souvenirs. I bought so much beautiful amber for myself and my family and it was soooooo cheap! 

I loved wandering around the city, it is still almost completely intact after the war. 

I went to Wawel castle, which was actually PACKED, so I didn't see any of the inside, I don't dig lines. 

The line to climb the tower wasn't long though, so I did that. 

The food was so amazing I have to talk about it again, this was a restaurant from the food tour that was so good I went back, Kuchnia U Doroty. I love pierogi turns out, and I really liked the ones with chicken and sauerkraut, they even had fruit ones!

On the recommendation of a friend I also went to Starka, had a freaking amazing meal and great vodka. 

Marvelous Malta

A few friends and did a quick trip to Malta for a weekend, it's less than an hour by plane from Sicily, though a few guys decided to drive across the island and take the ferry. Give me the easy way out any day. 

The first morning we headed out on a five hour long excursion around the beaches of Malta and Gozo. It was really fun, we were able to rent snorkel gear so we could see the fish in some of the grottos. It might have a been a little to much sun for me but I'm glad we did it regardless. 

Blue Window

The Blue Grotto, very busy, best way to get there is probably on a boat, the shores were packed with people. 

We were staying in St. Julian's, and that night we went out for Thai food (when not in Italy you take advantage of the diverse offerings) at Blue Elephant, which was fantastic. Afterwards we tried to go out for a while, but didn't stay out long because we're old and being in Malta made us feel like we were even older. The drinking age is 16 or 18, and the club where we were dancing was full of jerk kids who don't know how to drink in public yet and were smoking inside. It was like being in Neverland with a bunch of the Lost Boys, I kept looking for other adults. All that to say, don't go to St. Julian's for the night life unless you're under the age of 21. 

Day two started off with massages and facials, because having a hotel with a spa is enough of a reason for me to indulge. Next we went to Valletta, unfortunately the church was closed because it was Sunday, I would have loved to see the Carvaggio masterpieces inside, but it's maybe best to leave each place with something left to see. We spent a few hours walking around the town, enjoying the architecture and vistas of the water. 

Overlooking the port of Valletta. 

We watched the cannon battery which goes off every day at the saluting battery at noon and 1600. 

Friends from the trip who wanted in on the selfie situation. 

The Maltese Cross graces their flag and can be seen all around the country and is associated with the Knights of Malta. They were also awarded the George Cross from England for the bravery of the civilians of the country during WWII. 

This was a nice weekend away and I would absolutely return to see more of Valletta and the island. 

All About Amalfi

Let me just say if you ever get the chance to drive the Amalfi Coast, TAKE IT! I had such a wonderful weekend exploring the beautiful and historic sites all around the area. I rented a car from the airport (which was a long ordeal, the computers were down and when they came back up I got an "upgrade" for my patience, for the record this trip would have been much easier with the Fiat 500 I wanted instead of the Qubo they gave me) and hit the road!

My first stop was Herculaneum, which is better preserved than Pompeii, but much smaller. There are some wonderfully preserved mosaics and paintings from the time of the volcanic eruption. 

Painting in the Temple of Hercules. 

Proof that I actually went to Herculaneum. Pro Tip: Don't follow the Google Map directions, it took me an hour (and driving through two different markets where the poor locals were trying to shop when I came rolling through) to find where I was actually supposed to be. There is a separate exit for the archeological sit with signs that lead you to very convenient underground parking. I finally made it, got my ticket, and hopped on a guided tour that was 10 euro at the end. Easy day once I found where I was supposed to be. 

Next I went to Pompeii, it is HUGE! 

For this one I used the Rick Steves free audio guide, it was pretty good. Some of the areas were closed, they seem to be working on refurbishing some of the buildings, so after the audio guide ran out I wandered around a little, but it was ridiculously hot and there were approximately 10 million tourists from cruise ships walking around in huge groups and blocking the entire walkway, so I eventually gave up. 

Not the original dancing statue, that's in Naples, but this is where it was. 

These are stepping stones used as crosswalks. It's crazy to think that those grooves were made by wagons and chariots hundreds of years ago. 

There are many modern statues around the site now. 

They offer some nice visual interest. Another Pro Tip: Eat before you come here because the food outside was terrible and ridiculously overpriced. Not surprising because it was a tourist trap, but disappointing nonetheless. 

Next I drove to Sorrento where I was registered for a cooking class with Chef Carmen, some of my friends from college had taken her course a few weeks earlier and highly recommended it. I have to highly recommend the class as well. Chef Carmen was so lovely and entertaining, her directions for making the food were so easy to understand, and everything tasted AWESOME! We made an eggplant involtini appetizer (below), gnocchi (above, it was a very sticky endeavor),  a stuffed chicken breast (there was garlic and raisins and it was maybe the best thing I've ever made), and a limoncello tiramisu. I shared the class with a lovely couple from London and after a few glasses of prosecco and wine we were fast friends. Oh yeah, there's wine included. Take this class. 

Didn't want anyone eating my masterpiece. 

In the morning I continued down the coast to Positano, probably the most famous of the cities on the Amalfi Coast. 

For good reason, it's stunningly beauiful. 

And has a huge beach. 

It was a lovely city, the main attraction here is shopping, they are known for sandals. I didn't find any I liked, but the couple of shops I went in were really friendly. 

Perhaps my favorite part of this city was tourist watching and checking out all the sweet yachts anchored out. I swear one of them had a waterslide and there was a Chris-Craft, and I'm not sure which one would cost more. 

Positano, while beautiful, was also a little crowded for my liking. I wouldn't say it's a place to spend more than one day. 

So go and enjoy the views, then move on. 

To Amalfi! This city was a little more my speed. A gorgeous cathedral, a nice square just across where you can sit and have some wine, and some more lovely shopping options. 

Just remember when touring around Italy, that if you even think you'll be going into a church, bring something to cover your shoulders. I had to get the paper shawl of shame at this cathedral. 

I stayed a bit outside the city and used the bus to get around, which was easy enough but made me so incredibly grateful that I hadn't taken the bus the whole time. I would have barfed. I can't do windy roads with someone else driving. 

The next morning I headed on to Ravello to explore Villa Cimbrone. There is also a Villa Rufalo, but I was pretty much out of steam and besides...

Good luck beating this view! This was on the "Terrace of Infinity". 

Lots of fun statues here. 

Last view before I left Ravello. 

Most of the road along the Amalfi coast is tight and winding and you're fearful of buses coming around the corner, but there are areas where you can turn off and enjoy a vista. So I did that once or twice. 

I didn't even realize how great my hair looked when I decided to stop. I loved driving this so much I thought about turning around and driving back to the Naples Airport, but inspead I decided to see one more site. 

The Allied Cemetery at Salerno. It was perfectly maintained and a very humbling sight. It is impossible to forget that a war was fought here not that long ago, and I hope that this cemetery continues to be maintained. 

To end on a happy note, another successful solo trip, the rental car got returned miraculously scratch free and I was able to find an amazing wedding present for my cousin while I was there. Win.